# ASCORBIC ACID (ascorbic-acid) — Global Cosmetic Regulatory & Formulation Monograph

- **Canonical URL**: https://www.inciname.com/en/ingredients/ascorbic-acid
- **Standard INCI**: `ASCORBIC ACID`
- **KR MFDS Standard Name**: `아스코빅애씨드`
- **CAS No.**: `50-81-7`
- **EC / EINECS No.**: `200-066-2`
- **Origin**: `vitamin`
- **Functions**: 항산화제, pH조절제, 향료, 피부컨디셔닝제, 완충제
- **Molecular Formula / MW**: `C6H8O6` (176.12 g/mol)

## 1. 7-Track Official Regulatory Label Names
| Track | Official Label Nomenclature |
| :--- | :--- |
| KR (MFDS Standard) | 아스코빅애씨드 |
| KR (Former Names) | — |
| EU (CosIng 1223/2009) | ASCORBIC ACID |
| US (PCPC / MoCRA INCI) | ASCORBIC ACID |
| US (FDA OTC Monograph) | — |
| CN (NMPA IECIC) | 抗坏血酸(维生素C) |
| JP (JCIA / MHLW QD) | アスコルビン酸 (QD: Ｌ－アスコルビン酸) |

## 2. Layer 1 — Global 6-Region Statutory Summary
- **KR (MFDS)**: `none`
- **EU (1223/2009)**: `none`
- **US (FDA/MoCRA)**: `none`
- **CN (NMPA IECIC)**: `allowed` (Entry: `4092`)
- **JP (MHLW)**: `none`
- **ASEAN (ACD)**: `none`



## 3. Layer 2 — Toxicological & Historical Safe Use Concentrations
- **cn_iecic_max** (leave_on): ≤ 20% — NMPA IECIC (2025) Entry 03915 (2025)
- **cn_iecic_max** (rinse_off): ≤ 10% — NMPA IECIC (2025) Entry 03915 (2025)

## 4. Layer 3 — Formulation Quartiles & Compatibility
- **Optimal pH Window**: 2.5 – 3.5
- **Max Process Temp**: ≤ 38°C
- **Synergy Pairings**: FERULIC ACID, TOCOPHEROL, GLUTATHIONE, PROPANEDIOL, POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6
- **Incompatibilities**: CRITICAL INSTABILITY: Rapidly oxidizes in water upon exposure to oxygen, light, heat, or trace Fe3+/Cu2+, causing dark brown discoloration and CO2 gas container swelling! Must formulate at pH 2.5~3.4 with Ferulic Acid (0.5%) + Tocopherol (1.0%) + EDTA + low-water glycol matrix; Never combine with Sodium Benzoate (benzene risk), Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu), Niacinamide (low-pH niacin flush), or Carbomer

## 5. Academic Monograph
■ [1. Chemical Identity & International Labeling Nomenclature]
  - INCI Name: ASCORBIC ACID | CAS No.: 50-81-7 | EC No.: 200-066-2
  - Origin: VITAMIN | Functions: , pH, , , 
  - Physicochemical Profile: Formula C6H8O6 | MW 176.12 g/mol | LogP -1.85 | Ionic Nature: anionic | PubChem CID 54670067
  - Official Regional Label Names: US [ASCORBIC ACID] · EU [ASCORBIC ACID] · CN [抗坏血酸(维生素C)] · JP [アスコルビン酸] · JP Quasi-Drug [Ｌ－アスコルビン酸]
■ [2. Dermatological Mechanism of Action & Functional Role]
  - Pure L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), the primary water-soluble antioxidant in human skin. Neutralizes reactive oxygen species, regenerates oxidized alpha-tocopherol, serves as an essential cofactor for prolyl and lysyl hydroxylases in collagen triple-helix crosslinking, and inhibits melanogenesis by reducing dopaquinone and active-site Cu2+ in tyrosinase.
■ [3. Global 6-Jurisdiction Regulatory Status & Safety Limits (Layer 1 & Layer 2)]
  - Regional Summary: KR: NONE | EU: NONE | US: NONE | CN: ALLOWED | JP: NONE | ASEAN: NONE (CN IECIC (2025) Entry No. 4092 (抗坏血酸(维生素C)))
  - No specific Annex prohibition or numeric restriction across the 6 major jurisdictions (Permitted under general GMP safety assessment).
  - Official Safety & Historical Use Concentration (Layer 2): CN_IECIC_2025 (cn_iecic_max, leave_on): Max 20.0% / CN_IECIC_2025 (cn_iecic_max, rinse_off): Max 10.0%
■ [4. Formulation Dosage Guide by Product Category (Layer 3-A)]
  - [aqueous_serum] Typical range: 0.5 ~ 20.0% (Median 10.0%, Ref: CIR L-Ascorbic Acid Assessment & Pinnell et al. Duke Antioxidant Parameters) — Pure L-Ascorbic Acid potent antioxidant, melanin reducer & collagen cofactor
  - [anhydrous_balm] Typical range: 5.0 ~ 23.0% (Median 15.0%, Ref: CIR Ascorbic Acid Safety Assessment) — Anhydrous polyol/silicone suspension for zero-oxidation Vitamin C
■ [5. Formulation Engineering, Stability & Incompatibility Matrix (Layer 3-B)]
  - Addition Phase: Cool-down Phase (< 35°C under nitrogen blanket) or Anhydrous Polyol Phase
  - Optimal pH Range: pH 2.5 ~ 3.5 | Max Process Temp: Max 38°C | Electrolyte Tolerance: NONE
  - Incompatibility / Caution: CRITICAL INSTABILITY: Rapidly oxidizes in water upon exposure to oxygen, light, heat, or trace Fe3+/Cu2+, causing dark brown discoloration and CO2 gas container swelling! Must formulate at pH 2.5~3.4 with Ferulic Acid (0.5%) + Tocopherol (1.0%) + EDTA + low-water glycol matrix
  - Incompatibility / Caution: Never combine with Sodium Benzoate (benzene risk), Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu), Niacinamide (low-pH niacin flush), or Carbomer
  - Synergy Pairings: FERULIC ACID, TOCOPHEROL, GLUTATHIONE, PROPANEDIOL, POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6 | Reference Trade Names: Quali®-C (DSM), L-Ascorbic Acid Ultra-Fine
■ [6. Peer-Reviewed Literature & Official Compendia Evidence]
  - PMID 28805671 (2017, Nutrients): The roles of vitamin C in skin health
  - PMID 16029672 (2005, Dermatologic Surgery): Topical vitamin C: a useful agent for treating photoaging and other dermatologic conditions.
  - PMID 42281318 (2026, J Contemp Dent Pract): Evaluation of Fracture Resistance of Tooth Fragment Reattached with Cavity Disinfectants in Primary and Permanent Teeth:

## 6. Linked PubMed Literature
- [PMID: 28805671] The roles of vitamin C in skin health — *Nutrients* (2017)
- [PMID: 16029672] Topical vitamin C: a useful agent for treating photoaging and other dermatologic conditions. — *Dermatologic Surgery* (2005)
- [PMID: 42281318] Evaluation of Fracture Resistance of Tooth Fragment Reattached with Cavity Disinfectants in Primary and Permanent Teeth: An In Vitro Study. — *J Contemp Dent Pract* (2026)
- [PMID: 42274816] Algal Derived Bioactive Compounds as Radiation Protectant: An Emerging Strategy for Future Applications — *Curr Microbiol* (2026)
- [PMID: 42274558] Proteomic Analysis of the Metabolic Response of UVA-Exposed Melanocytes Following Co-Treatment with Cannabigerol and 3-O-Ethylascorbic Acid — *Cells* (2026)
- [PMID: 42246099] Determination of 16 organic ultraviolet absorbers in drinking water by solid phase extraction-ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry — *Se Pu* (2026)
- [PMID: 42295702] Guanidinium-rich scyllo-inositol molecular transporter enables enhanced transdermal and intracellular delivery of vitagen. — *Drug Deliv Transl Res* (2026)
- [PMID: 42279695] Bioresource Potential and Safety Evaluations of Thai Zea mays L. Husk Waste Extracts — *Foods* (2026)
- [PMID: 42274614] IGF-1 Increases Collagen Deposition by Dermal Fibroblasts: Applications for Tissue Engineering — *Cells* (2026)
- [PMID: 42270820] Biosynthesis of antibacterial zinc oxide nanoparticles from endophytic Streptomyces werraensis — *Sci Rep* (2026)
- [PMID: 42242821] Folding integrated all-paper photoelectrochemical immunoassay using annealed ZnO for point-of-care detection of ferritin — *Anal Chim Acta* (2026)
- [PMID: 15877873] Topical vitamin C: a useful agent for treating photoaging and other dermatological conditions — *Dermatologic Surgery* (2005)
- [PMID: ] PubChem Compound Summary: Ascorbic Acid — *PubChem Compound Database* (2026)