GLYCOLIC ACID

Chemical peels are widely used for both cosmetic and medical dermatologic indications, but their application in individuals with skin of color (Fitzpatrick skin types IV-VI) requires caution due to the increased risk of pigmentary complications. To assess their safety and efficacy, a comprehensive PubMed review was conducted, identifying 473 studies, seven of which met the inclusion criteria, specifically those articles documenting chemical peels in skin of color populations and reported primary outcomes. Among the seven included studies, five evaluated peels for the treatment of acne and acne scarring, all reporting positive outcomes with minimal adverse effects. One study addressed lichen planus pigmentosus, showing significant clinical improvement, and one highlighted chemical burns resulting from improper use. Overall, superficial peels such as glycolic and salicylic acid show promise for acne and pigmentary disorders with good safety profiles. However, research is limited by small sample sizes, short follow-ups, and underrepresentation of Fitzpatrick skin types IV-VI. Further research is needed to establish standardized protocols, assess deeper peels, and guide equitable, evidence-based care.

Integrated skincare (ISC) combines dermocosmetics with medical aesthetic procedures to improve outcomes. However, guidance on selecting appropriate active ingredients across different procedure types and phases remains limited. To provide international guidance on appropriate ISC actives for use with aesthetic procedures. In a simplified Delphi study, 14 experts evaluated 44 actives for use across four procedure categories (ablative energy-based, non-ablative energy-based, non-energy-based procedures with or without skin barrier disruption) at four time points (pretreatment, peri-treatment, aftercare, and follow-up ≥ 1 week post-procedure). The panelists also ranked their top five preferred actives for each procedure category and time point. Ceramides, cholesterol, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and peptides were deemed appropriate across all procedure categories and all time points. Azelaic acid, benzoyl peroxide, cysteamine, glycolic acid, hydroquinone, lactic acid, retinoids, and salicylic acid were identified as unsuitable for use on treatment day. Ceramides and hyaluronic acid were highly ranked for pre-treatment, peri-treatment and aftercare, while retinoids and ferulic acid were highly ranked for pretreatment and followup. Vitamin C was ranked in the top 5 across all procedure categories and time points, except at pretreatment for non-energy-based without skin barrier damage. Safety and tolerability are primary considerations when selecting ISC actives. Ingredients with higher irritation potential, such as retinoids and acids, should be avoided during the healing phase (on treatment day and during short-term aftercare) due to risk of irritation, as well as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in skin of color.

The goal of this study was to develop and optimize glycolic acid integrated nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs). The developed NLCs were optimized by 3 4 Central Composite Design (CCD) and were evaluated for their particle size, polydispersity index (PDI), zeta-potential, drug loading, and entrapment efficiency. Moreover, in-vitro drug release, ex-vivo skin permeation and retention analysis, cytocompatibility using the MTT (3-(4,5-Dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide) assay, antioxidant measurements via DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) scavenging assessment for anti-inflammatory effects by observing cytokine inhibition in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated macrophages, and in-vivo irritation potential using the Hen's Egg Test on the Chorioallantoic Membrane (HET-CAM) assay were also evaluated. The optimized NLCs have a particle size of 121.75 ± 9.18 nm, a PDI of 0.367 ± 0.07, and a zeta potential of -35.77 ± 3.44 mV, indicating a stable formulation. In-vitro assays demonstrated sustained drug release, cytocompatibility, and antioxidant potency with effective reduction of pro-inflammatory cytokines, i.e. interleukin-6 (IL-6) and tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α). The combined Apremilast (APM)-Quercetin (QRC)-NLC integrated with glycolic acid introduces an promising nanocarrier strategy for the topical treatment of psoriasis. Psoriasis is a chronic dermatological disease associated with erythema and epidermal hyperplasia and cutaneous irritation. Numerous pharmacological agents used in the treatment of psoriasis have poor cutaneous permeability, which diminishes their therapeutic effect. In this investigation, we designed a novel micro or nanoscale topical formulation that included apremilast and quercetin in combination with glycolic acid to improve dermal drug delivery. The resulting formulation showed submicron particle sizes, favorable physicochemical stability and a sustained drug release profile, which in combination provides prolonged residence time at the application site. In addition, the formulation increased the amount of drug that was retained in the epidermis and diminished the amount absorbed systemically. In vitro assessments showed that the developed system was non-toxic to the keratinocytes, did not induce cutaneous irritation and had apparent anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. These data suggest the newly developed nano-topical delivery vehicle may represent a safer and more efficacious therapeutic option for psoriasis; however, additional preclinical and clinical studies are needed to validate its use in the treatment of psoriasis.

Inflammation-associated skin lesions, including psoriasis (PsO) and diabetic foot ulcers (DFU), greatly impair patients' quality of life. Gentiopicroside (GPS), a key iridoid glycoside from Gentiana species, exhibits anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties, but its clinical application is limited by low oral bioavailability and poor skin permeability. Nanodelivery strategies have been actively explored to overcome these limitations. The objective of this review was to critically analyze recent breakthroughs in GPS-loaded nanodelivery approaches for the treatment of inflammation-associated skin lesions, especially PsO and DFU, including the impact of these approaches on GPS bioavailability, efficacy, and safety profile. Oral bioavailability of GPS can be improved by poly (lactic-co-glycolic acid) (PLGA) nanospheres and phospholipid-complex self-nanoemulsifying drug delivery systems (PC-SNEDDS), while skin-targeted delivery and sustained release can be enhanced by chitosan (CHI) nanoparticles, electrospun nanofibers, ZIF-8 metal-organic frameworks, and nanoscale hydrogels. These nanodelivery technologies improve the translational potential of GPS for chronic inflammatory skin diseases. Although GPS-loaded systems have not yet entered clinical trials, analogous nanotechnologies have demonstrated enhanced drug stability, bioavailability, safety, and patient tolerability in treatments of other skin diseases, highlighting their strong potential for clinical translation. Future efforts toward clinical translation may focus on establishing common evaluation criteria, conducting full-scale toxicological and biodistribution tests, and implementing Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP)-scale-up projects with multicenter preclinical trials.

Chemical exfoliation efficacy is significantly limited by pH-dependent permeability reduction above the pKa of glycolic acid (3.83), constraining consumer product development. To develop and evaluate a biphasic serum utilizing temporary lecithin-glycolate ion-pairing to enhance stratum corneum permeation while maintaining safety at pH 3.9. A biphasic formulation containing 10 wt% (weight percent) glycolic acid and 0.1 wt% lecithin was developed. Temporary ion-pairing was characterized by FT-IR spectroscopy. Ex vivo permeation and exfoliation were evaluated using porcine skin models. A 2-week double-blind, split-face clinical study (n = 37) assessed efficacy using instrumental probes (Visioscan, Corneofix, VISIA-CR, and ANTERA 3D) for exfoliation-related parameters and sensitive skin compatibility. FT-IR analysis confirmed lecithin-glycolate bonding via red-shifted C = O peaks, with spectral comparisons before and after shaking demonstrating the reversible nature of the change. The biphasic serum achieved 4.19-fold higher epidermal glycolic acid delivery compared to conventional formulations with minimal deep penetration. Clinical evaluation demonstrated superior exfoliation (45.52% improvement, p < 0.001), enhanced skin brightness, texture, and hydration. Redness and transepidermal water loss, assessed for sensitive skin suitability, showed significant improvements. The biphasic system successfully overcomes pH-dependent limitations of glycolic acid through temporary ion-pairing, providing enhanced exfoliation efficacy with a superior safety profile for consumer applications.

Chemical peels have been time-tested and are here to stay. Alpha-hydroxy peels are highly popular in the dermatologist's arsenal of procedures. Glycolic acid peel is the most common alpha-hydroxy acid peel, also known as fruit peel. It is simple, inexpensive, and has no downtime. This review talks about various studies of glycolic acid peels for various indications, such as acne, acne scars, melasma, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, photoaging, and seborrhea. Combination therapies and treatment procedure are also discussed. Careful review of medical history, examination of the skin, and pre-peel priming of skin are important before every peel. Proper patient selection, peel timing, and neutralization on-time will ensure good results, with no side effects. Depth of the glycolic acid peel depends on the concentration of the acid used, the number of coats applied, and the time for which it is applied. Hence, it can be used as a very superficial peel, or even a medium depth peel. It has been found to be very safe with Fitzpatrick skin types I-IV. All in all, it is a peel that is here to stay.

To develop hyaluronic acid (HA)-modified poly(lactic-co-glycolic acid) (PLGA) nanoparticles (HA-PLGA NPs) for enhanced triamcinolone acetonide (TA) ocular delivery. HA-PLGA NPs were prepared via solvent evaporation. Physicochemical properties, in vitro corneal permeation, and in vivo pharmacokinetics in rabbit aqueous humour were evaluated. HA modification significantly increased encapsulation efficiency from 22.26 ± 0.8% to 62.87 ± 3.9% ( w/w ) and drug loading from 2.21 ± 0.08% to 6.09 ± 0.38% ( w/w ). Apparent permeability coefficient increased from 2.33 ± 0.14 to 9.28 ± 0.58 (×10 -6 cm·s -1 ). In vivo , HA-PLGA NPs achieved a 7.2-fold higher area under the curve ( AUC 0→360 ) (8.06 μg·mL -1 ·min) compared to unmodified nanoparticles. HA-PLGA NPs provide a high-efficiency, non-invasive platform for treating posterior segment diseases by overcoming ocular barriers through bioadhesion.

Insulin delivery is fundamental to diabetes management; however, conventional monophasic release systems often fail to achieve both rapid glycemic correction and sustained basal regulation. In this study, we developed an implantable core-shell biphasic-release microneedle (MN) system engineered to enable independent dual-stage insulin kinetics. The platform comprises a fast-dissolving gelatin shell and a sustained-release, self-healing porous poly(lactic-co-glycolic acid) (PLGA) core, supported by a rigid resin micropillar array. The porous PLGA core was fabricated via cryogenic demolding and phase separation to allow diffusive insulin loading, followed by mild thermally induced self-healing to seal and encapsulate the drug. The outer gelatin shell was prepared through its reversible sol-gel transition at 4 °C, providing a gentle, low-temperature encapsulation environment that preserves insulin bioactivity. The supporting resin micropillars enhance skin penetration depth and facilitate facile detachment, allowing the drug-loaded tips to remain embedded in the dermis as intradermal depots. In vitro and in vivo release studies demonstrated a well-defined biphasic profile, characterized by an initial rapid release from the gelatin shell for prompt glycemic reduction, followed by sustained release from the PLGA core to maintain prolonged glucose homeostasis. In diabetic rat models, the system reduced blood glucose levels within 3 h and maintained therapeutic efficacy for up to 7 days without inducing the hypoglycemia commonly associated with bolus injections. By integrating a core-shell architecture with a mild encapsulation strategy, this platform provides a promising approach for efficient and patient-friendly management of chronic metabolic disorders.

Melanoma is among the most aggressive forms of skin cancer, characterized by high metastatic potential and limited responsiveness to conventional chemotherapy. Paclitaxel (PTX) is an efficacious anticancer agent; however, its clinical utility in melanoma is restricted by poor aqueous solubility, non-specific biodistribution, and dose-limiting systemic toxicity. To overcome these limitations, this study aimed to develop and evaluate folate-targeted poly(lactic-co-glycolic acid) nanoparticles (FA-PTX-PLGA-NPs) as a targeted nanotherapeutic approach for melanoma treatment. Paclitaxel-loaded PLGA nanoparticles were synthesized through an emulsion-solvent evaporation process, followed by surface functionalization with folic acid to promote targeting by folate receptor. Nanosized particle formation with acceptable stability and drug encapsulation was confirmed by physicochemical characterization. The anticancer efficacy of FA-PTX-PLGA-NPs in B16 melanoma cells was assessed using cell viability and apoptosis assays compared with free paclitaxel and non-targeted PTX-PLGA nanoparticles. The findings indicated a distinct formulation-dependent therapeutic response. The most pronounced reduction in cell viability (25.94 ± 5.18%) was observed with FA-PTX-PLGA-NPs compared to free PTX (59.07 ± 5.98%) and PTX-PLGA nanoparticles (42.90 ± 4.10%). Consistently, apoptosis analysis revealed a significant increase in apoptotic cell populations following treatment with FA-PTX-PLGA-NPs (68.47 ± 6.53%) compared to free PTX and non-targeted nanoparticles (p < 0.001). These observations suggest that the increased anticancer potency is primarily mediated through apoptosis, with a strong association to folate receptor-mediated cellular uptake. Finally, folate-targeted PLGA nanoparticles could markedly enhance the therapeutic properties of paclitaxel against melanoma by improving intracellular drug delivery and promoting apoptotic cell death. It is worth noting that such a targeted nanocarrier platform may present a promising platform for melanoma chemotherapy and needs to be further evaluated in vivo to show its translational potential. This study presents a novel folate-targeted PLGA nanoparticle system for enhanced delivery of paclitaxel in melanoma cells, demonstrating improved cytotoxic and apoptotic effects compared to non-targeted nanoparticles.