원료 사전 탐색/bisabolol/BISABOLOL
Tier 1 Monograph · SSOT 15 FieldsRaw .md (GEO) ↗
합성 (Synthetic)

BISABOLOL

식약처 한글 표준명: 비사보롤
향료피부컨디셔닝제진정제
[식약처 공정서 기원 및 정의] 이 원료는 다음의 구조를 갖는 터펜이다.
[EU CosIng Official Definition] (R*,R*)-.alpha.,4-dimethyl-.alpha.-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-methanol; 3-Cyclohexene-1-methanol, alpha,4-dimethyl-alpha-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-, (theta,theta)-(+/-)-; 3-Cyclohexene-1-methanol, alpha,4-dimethyl-alpha-(4-methyl-3-pentenyl)-, (S-(theta,theta))- (levomenol)
결론 선행 Executive Regulatory & Safety Fact BoxAEO / GEO CITATION ANCHOR

화장품에서 비사보롤 (BISABOLOL)의 글로벌 배합 한도와 핵심 효능·처방 기준은 무엇인가요?

비사보롤(표준 INCI: BISABOLOL, CAS 번호: 515-69-5)은 화장품 처방에서 주로 향료, 피부컨디셔닝제, 진정제 목적으로 배합되는 핵심 원료입니다. 한국 식약처(표시·고시) 및 유럽 CosIng(미규제) 등 6대 권역 법정 기준 하에 관리되며, 통상 0.1–1%(적정 pH 3.5–9) 범위에서 안정적으로 처방됩니다.

7대 갈래 국가별·용도별 공식 전성분 라벨 표기명 매트릭스

각국 1차 법원 고시 정본 · 기계번역·임의 음차 0건
7-Track Official Statutory Label Names for BISABOLOL
국가·규제 트랙공식 고시 전성분 표기명원클릭 복사
① 한국 (MFDS 화장품 한글 표준명)비사보롤
② 한국 구명칭 (개정 전 이력 · 301 리다이렉트)비사볼올
③ 유럽 (EU CosIng EC 1223/2009)BISABOLOL
④ 미국 일반화장품 (US PCPC / MoCRA INCI)BISABOLOL
⑤ 미국 OTC (FDA Active Ingredient Monograph)— (비-OTC 일반 화장품 원료)—
⑥ 중국 (NMPA IECIC 표준 중문명)红没药醇
⑦ 일본 일반화장품 / 의약부외품 (JCIA / MHLW)BISABOLOL (표준 INCI 기준 · 임의 가타카나 변환 배제)

Layer 1 — 글로벌 6대 권역 법정 배합 한도 및 규제 상태

Layer 1 Statutory Regulatory Limits Across 6 Regions for BISABOLOL
권역규제 상태배합 한도제한 조건 및 1차 법원 출처
일본 (MHLW)제한≤ 1.2%
—
Source: 化粧品に配合可能な医薬品の成分について(薬食審査発第0524001号) 별첨 「承認化粧品成分の範囲」
한국 (MFDS)표시·고시≤ 0.5%
—
Source: 기능성화장품 심사에 관한 규정 [별표4] 자료제출이 생략되는 기능성화장품의 종류(제6조제3항 관련)

Layer 2 — 독성·안전성 평가 한도 (US CIR · EU SCCS MoS≥100 · CN IECIC 최고역사사용량)

「SCCS 안전 판정 상한」은 유럽 소비자안전과학위원회가 안전역(MoS≥100)으로 판정한 상한이며, 「CIR 시판 보고 농도」와 「중국 IECIC 최고역사사용량」은 실제 시판 제품에 보고된 최대 농도입니다.

Layer 2 Toxicological & Historical Safe Use Concentrations for BISABOLOL
안전성 평가 기준적용 부위·유형안전 농도 범위판정 결과 및 문헌 번호
중국 IECIC 최고역사사용량leave_on≤ 2%안전 판정(MoS≥100)NMPA IECIC (2025) Entry 05618 (2025)
중국 IECIC 최고역사사용량rinse_off≤ 1%안전 판정(MoS≥100)NMPA IECIC (2025) Entry 05618 (2025)
⚠️ 참조용 안내 (법적 면책 공지): 이 사전의 성분명·규제 한도·배합 가이드는 연구·개발 참조용으로만 제공됩니다. 각국 고시 개정 시차나 데이터 오기·누락이 있을 수 있으므로, 실제 제품 처방·라벨 표기·인허가 전에는 반드시 관할 기관(식약처 등)의 최신 공식 고시 원문을 직접 확인하시기 바라며, 본 사전의 정보를 잘못 사용하여 발생하는 문제에 대해 운영 주체는 법적 책임을 지지 않습니다.
제형군별 사분위수(Min–Q1–Median–Q3–Max) 분포 그래프

Layer 3 제형군별 통상 배합 농도(%) 레인지 & Layer 1 법정 한도 대조

법정 최대 한도: 1.2%
O/W · W/O 에멀전·크림n=126
Min 0.1% · Q1 0.2% · Median 0.3% · Q3 0.5% · Max 1%
O/W · W/O 에멀전·크림 — 캐모마일/칸데아 유래 세스퀴테르펜 알코올 — 항염(IL-1α/TNF-α/PGE2 억제), 자극 완화 및 미백(KR 기능성 고시 알파-비사보롤 0.5%)
공식 검증 원천: Symrise Dragosantol / BASF Bisabolol TDS, MFDS Annex 4 & CIR Assessment (cir_safety) · BASF 58 · Symrise 44 · Evonik 24
권장 중앙값: 0.3%

Layer 3 — 제형군별 통상 배합 농도(n≥5 사분위수) & 물리화학·상용성 가이드

Layer 3 Formulation Concentration Quartiles by Product Category for BISABOLOL
제형군 분류Min – Q1 – Median – Q3 – Max (%)처방 역할 및 기전Source ID
제형군 B — 유화 로션 · 에멀전 · 크림 (O/W · W/O)0.1% · 0.2% · 0.3% · 0.5% · 1%캐모마일/칸데아 유래 세스퀴테르펜 알코올 — 항염(IL-1α/TNF-α/PGE2 억제), 자극 완화 및 미백(KR 기능성 고시 알파-비사보롤 0.5%)Symrise Dragosantol / BASF Bisabolol TDS, MFDS Annex 4 & CIR Assessment
피부 투과 과학 시각화 (Bos & Meinardi 500 Dalton Rule)MW: 222.37 Da · LogP: 3.79

각질층 장벽 투과 깊이 & 바이오 스피큘 경피전달(DDS) 시뮬레이션

각질층 (Stratum Corneum · 10~20 µm)500 Dalton 장벽 (고분자·친수성 성분 차단)생존 표피층 (Viable Epidermis · 50~100 µm)멜라닌세포 · 각질형성세포 타깃 (미백·장벽·턴오버)진피 유두층 (Papillary Dermis · 150~300 µm)섬유아세포 콜라겐 I/III · 엘라스틴 · PDRN 재생 타깃표피~상부 진피 확산 (<500 Da)
분자량(MW) & 친유성(LogP) 투과 판정
저분자 영역 (222.37 Da ≤ 500 Da) — 각질층 수동 확산 가능

단독 도포 시 각질층 세포간 지질(Brick & Mortar) 경로를 통해 확산됩니다. 500 Dalton 이상 친수성 분자는 각질층 표면에 주로 머물러 보습·보호막 역할을 수행합니다.

예상 도달 깊이
40–90 µm
권장 전달 시스템
O/W Emulsion / Micelle
계면화학 · pH · 열역학 공정 시각화

pH 안정성 스펙트럼(0~14) · 가열 한계 게이지 · HLB 콜로이드 상거동

Miscible with oils, esters, ethanol, propylene glycol; insoluble in water
적정 처방 pH 안전 윈도우 (pH 0 ~ 14 스펙트럼)pH 3.5 – 9.0
0245.5791114

권장 구간 밖(pH < 3.5 또는 pH > 9)에서는 가수분해·점도 저하·이온 탈리 위험이 증가합니다.

공정 가열 한계 온도 (Max Process Temp)≤ 75°C
25°C45°C60°C75°C85°C100°C

최대 75°C 가열 공정에서 열적 안정성이 유지됩니다.

계면활성·유화 HLB 스펙트럼 (0 ~ 20) & 미셀/액정 배열 시뮬레이터
O/W 수중유형 미셀 에멀전 (수분 크림·로션)
HLB 11.5
W/O (3–6)Lamellar (8–10.5)O/W Emulsion (11–15)Solubilizer (15–19)O/W Droplet
생화학 신호전달 경로 (Biochemical Pathway Map)

세포·분자 타깃 작용 기전 플로우 다이어그램

1. 각질층·표피 작용→ 촉진·활성 (Activation)
각질층 세포간 지질 & 수분 결합 네트워크
→
경피수분손실(TEWL) 억제 및 피부결 개선
2. 염증 매개체 조절⊣ 억제·차단 (Inhibition)
외부 자극 유도 산화 스트레스(ROS) 및 사이토카인
⊣
피부 진정 및 항상성 유지
처방 온톨로지 네트워크 그래프

권장 시너지(🟢 실선) & 배합 금기·주의(🔴 점선) 인터랙티브 관계도

+ RETINOL+ PANTHENOL+ CERAMIDE NP+ GUAIAZULENE+ ZINC OXIDE✕ 지용성 오일 원료이므로 수성 토너·앰…✕ 이성질체 분리 철칙: 천연 (-)-α…BISABOLOL
노드 인터랙션 가이드

🟢 초록색 시너지 원료 노드를 클릭하면 해당 원료 모노그래프로 즉시 이동하며, 🔴 붉은색 점선 노드를 클릭하면 화학적 상충(석출·변색·실활) 메커니즘을 표시합니다.

대표 상용명 참고 (상표법 제90조 제1항 제2호 설명적 표기)
Dragosantol® 100(-)-Alpha-Bisabolol Natural

상용명 표기는 상표법 제90조 제1항 제2호에 의거하여 연구원에게 원료 등급·규격을 설명하기 위한 참고용이며, 각 상표의 권리는 해당 원료사에 귀속됩니다.

학술·독성·제형 종합 요약 (Tier 1~3 탄력 요약)

Tier 1 Synthesis

이 원료에 매칭된 PubMed 동료심사 논문 초록과 공인 독성 보고서만으로 작성된 학술 요약입니다.

■ [1. 화학적 정체성 및 규격 (Chemical Identity & Standard Nomenclature)] - 표준명: 비사보롤 | INCI: BISABOLOL | CAS No.: 515-69-5 | EC No.: 208-205-9 - 기원 및 분류: SYNTHETIC | 주요 기능: 향료, 피부컨디셔닝제, 진정제 - 물리화학 스펙: 분자식 C15H26O | 분자량 222.37 g/mol | LogP 3.79 | 이온성: non-ionic | PubChem CID 10586 - 7대 권역 공식 라벨 표기: KR [비사보롤] · EU [BISABOLOL] · US [BISABOLOL] · CN [红没药醇] · JP [-] · JP의약부외품 [-] ■ [2. 피부과학적 작용 기전 및 제형 내 역할 (Mechanism of Action & Function)] - 캐모마일(Chamomilla recutita) 정유 또는 칸데아 나무에서 유래하거나 합성된 모노사이클릭 세스퀴테르펜 알코올로, 라세미체((±)-α-Bisabolol) 형태를 포함합니다. 프로염증성 매개체인 류코트리엔(LTB4)과 인터루킨(IL-1α, TNF-α) 합성을 억제하여 자외선 홍반과 화학적 자극을 진정시키며, 각질층 지질 유동성을 일시적으로 높여 병용 유효성분의 피부 투과를 돕습니다. ■ [3. 글로벌 6대 권역 법정 규제 및 안전성 한도 (Layer 1 & Layer 2 Regulatory Matrix)] - 6개국 요약: KR: NOTED | EU: NONE | US: NONE | CN: ALLOWED | JP: RESTRICTED | ASEAN: NONE (중국 IECIC(2025) 등재번호 2888 (红没药醇)) - [JP / COMPOSITION / limited] (최대 1.2%): - [KR / CLAIM / noted]: - 공인 안전성·역사적 사용 농도(Layer 2): CN_IECIC_2025 (cn_iecic_max, leave_on): 최대 2.0% / CN_IECIC_2025 (cn_iecic_max, rinse_off): 최대 1.0% ■ [4. 제형군별 통상 배합 가이드 (Layer 3-A Formulation Dosage Guide)] - [emulsion_cream] 권장 범위: 0.1 ~ 1.0% (중앙값 0.3%, 근거: Symrise Dragosantol / BASF Bisabolol TDS, MFDS Annex 4 & CIR Assessment) — 캐모마일/칸데아 유래 세스퀴테르펜 알코올 — 항염(IL-1α/TNF-α/PGE2 억제), 자극 완화 및 미백(KR 기능성 고시 알파-비사보롤 0.5%) ■ [5. 연구원 공정 설계 · 안정성 · 배합 금기 (Layer 3-B Process & Compatibility)] - 투입 공정(Phase): Cool-down Phase (< 60°C) or Oil Phase - 적정 pH 구간: pH 3.5 ~ 9.0 | 공정 내열 온도: 최대 75°C | 전해질(염) 내성: HIGH - 배합 주의/금기: 지용성 오일 원료이므로 수성 토너·앰플에는 Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate 또는 Polysorbate 20(1:4 비율)으로 선가용화 후 투입 필수 - 배합 주의/금기: 이성질체 분리 철칙: 천연 (-)-α-Bisabolol (알파-비사보롤, KR 미백 기능성 고시 0.5%)과 합성 라세미체 (±)-Bisabolol (비사보롤, 활성 약 50%)을 구분하여 처방할 것 - 시너지 추천 원료: RETINOL, PANTHENOL, CERAMIDE NP, GUAIAZULENE, ZINC OXIDE | 참고 상용 원료명: Dragosantol® 100, (-)-Alpha-Bisabolol Natural ■ [6. 학술 논문 및 공인 문헌 근거 (Peer-Reviewed Literature & Compendia)] - PMID 29025339 (2017, Int J Toxicol): Bisabolol - PMID 20137740 (2010, Dermatitis): Bisabolol - PMID 35164145 (2022, Molecules): Biotransformation of (-)-α-Bisabolol by Absidia coerulea

근거 동료심사 학술 논문 (미국 NIH PubMed) (20)

Bisabolol [PMID: 29025339 · 2017]
Fiume MM · Int J Toxicol (2017)
Bisabolol [PMID: 20137740 · 2010]
Russell K, Jacob SE · Dermatitis (2010)

Bisabolol is an active plant extract isolated from German chamomile and thought to have antiinflammatory and skin-soothing properties. It is a common additive in many products, including moisturizing creams and ointments, lotions, cleansers, sunscreens, antiperspirants, and makeup products. Contact dermatitis from bisabolol has been reported in Europe and is purported to occur in the United States. Patch testing with bisabolol-containing products or bisabolol may be useful in the work-up of patients with presumptive allergic contact dermatitis or potentially worsening atopic dermatitis. Patients sensitized to bisabolol should be counseled to avoid any bisabolol-containing products.

Biotransformation of (-)-α-Bisabolol by Absidia coerulea [PMID: 35164145 · 2022]
Park J, Han F, Lee IS · Molecules (2022)

(-)-&#x3b1;-Bisabolol, a bioactive monocyclic sesquiterpene alcohol, has been used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products with anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and skin-caring properties. However, the poor water solubility of (-)-&#x3b1;-bisabolol limits its pharmaceutical applications. It has been recognized that microbial transformation is a very useful approach to generate more polar metabolites. Fifteen microorganisms were screened for their ability to metabolize (-)-&#x3b1;-bisabolol in order to obtain its more polar derivatives, and the filamentous fungus Absidia coerulea was selected for scale-up fermentation. Seven new and four known metabolites were obtained from biotransformation of (-)-&#x3b1;-bisabolol ( 1 ), and all the metabolites exhibited higher aqueous solubility than that of the parent compound 1 . The structures of newly formed metabolites were established as (1 R ,5 R ,7 S )- and (1 R ,5 S ,7 S )-5-hydroxy-&#x3b1;-bisabolol ( 2 and 3 ), (1 R ,5 R ,7 S ,10 S )-5-hydroxybisabolol oxide B ( 4 ), (1 R ,7 S ,10 S )-1-hydroxybisabolol oxide B ( 5 ), 12-hydroxy-&#x3b1;-bisabolol ( 7 ), (1 S ,3 R ,4 S ,7 S )- and (1 S ,3 S ,4 S ,7 S )-3,4-dihydroxy-&#x3b1;-bisabolol ( 8 and 10 ) on the basis of spectroscopic analyses. These compounds could also be used as reference standards for the detection and identification of the metabolic products of 1 in the mammalian system.

Bisabolol as a natural anticancer agent: molecular insights and therapeutic potential in oncology [PMID: 40974418 · 2025]
Prasher P, Sharma M, Fatima R, Setzer WN, Sharifi-Rad J · Med Oncol (2025)

&#x3b1;-Bisabolol is a naturally derived monocyclic sesquiterpene, abundantly present in German chamomile (Matricaria recutita) and various other aromatic plants and is also increasingly accessible via metabolic engineering platforms. The physicochemical profile and ADMET characteristics of &#x3b1;-bisabolol, suggest a high gastrointestinal absorption, and minimal P-glycoprotein and CYP450 interactions, which validate its drug-like potential. The multi-protein target engagement and predicted activity spectrum of &#x3b1;-bisabolol have been discussed in the manuscript by using in silico tools (SwissTargetPrediction and PASS), which aligns with the experimental anticancer results of &#x3b1;-bisabolol in leukemia, pancreatic, lung, and glioblastoma models. Mechanistically, the anticancer profile of &#x3b1;-bisabolol arises from the induction of mitochondrial apoptosis, disruption of PI3K/Akt/FAK/BRAF pathways, modulation of lipid-raft-associated Bid protein, and dysregulation of autophagy. The design and bioactivity of novel chemical derivatives (e.g., acyl, glycoside, and thiosemicarbazone analogs) and delivery systems (cyclodextrin inclusion complexes, PLGA nanoparticles), emphasizing improvements in solubility, potency, and systemic delivery have also been comprehensively discussed in this review. Finally, a critical evaluation of the clinical translation barriers including poor aqueous solubility, limited in vivo pharmacokinetics, CYP2C9/CYP2J-mediated metabolism, and formulation challenges of &#x3b1;-bisabolol have been succinctly provided. Overall, this review integrates phytochemistry, polypharmacology, mechanistic validation, and translational hurdles, thereby offering a novel roadmap for developing &#x3b1;-bisabolol as a viable anticancer therapeutic.

Production of (-)-α-bisabolol in metabolically engineered Saccharomyces cerevisiae [PMID: 34391805 · 2021]
Kim TY, Park H, Kim SK, Kim SJ, Park YC · J Biotechnol (2021)

(-)-&#x3b1;-Bisabolol is a natural monocyclic sesquiterpene alcohol present in German chamomile and has been used as an ingredient of functional foods, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. In this study, metabolic engineering strategies were attempted to produce (-)-&#x3b1;-bisabolol in Saccharomyces cerevisiae. The codon-optimized MrBBS gene coding for (-)-&#x3b1;-bisabolol synthase from Matricaria recutita was expressed in S. cerevisiae for (-)-&#x3b1;-bisabolol production. The resulting strain (DM) produced 9.5&#xa0;mg/L of (-)-&#x3b1;-bisabolol in 24&#xa0;h of batch culture. Additionally, the mevalonate pathway was intensified by introducing a truncated HMG1 gene coding for HMG-CoA reductase and ERG10 encoding acetyl-CoA thiolase. The resulting strain (DtEM) produced a 2.9-fold increased concentration of (-)-&#x3b1;-bisabolol than the DM strain. To increase the acetyl-CoA pool, the ACS1 gene coding for acetyl-CoA synthetase was also overexpressed in the DtEM strain. Finally, the DtEMA strain produced 124&#xa0;mg/L of (-)-&#x3b1;-bisabolol with 2.7&#xa0;mg/L-h of productivity in a fed-batch fermentation, which were 13 and 6.8 times higher than the DM strain in batch culture, respectively. Conclusively, these metabolically-engineered approaches might pave the way for the sustainable production of other sesquiterpenes in engineered S. cerevisiae.

Health Benefits, Pharmacological Effects, Molecular Mechanisms, and Therapeutic Potential of α-Bisabolol [PMID: 35405982 · 2022]
Eddin LB, Jha NK, Goyal SN, Agrawal YO, Subramanya SB, Bastaki SMA, Ojha S · Nutrients (2022)

&#x3b1;-Bisabolol is one of the important monocyclic sesquiterpenes, derived naturally from essential oils of many edible and ornamental plants. It was first obtained from Matricaria chamomilla , commonly known as chamomile or German chamomile. The available literature indicates that this plant along with other &#x3b1;-Bisabolol containing plants is popularly used in traditional medicine for potential health benefits and general wellbeing. Nutritional studies are indicative of the health benefits of &#x3b1;-Bisabolol. Numerous experimental studies demonstrated pharmacological properties of &#x3b1;-Bisabolol including anticancer, antinociceptive, neuroprotective, cardioprotective, and antimicrobial. This review aims to collectively present different pharmacological activities based on both in vitro and in vivo studies. In the present review using synoptic tables and figures, we comprehensively present that &#x3b1;-Bisabolol possesses therapeutic and protective activities, therefore, it can be used for potential health benefits based on pharmacological effects, underlying molecular mechanism, and favorable pharmaceutical properties. Based on the studies mostly performed on cell lines or animal models, it is evident that &#x3b1;-Bisabolol may be a promising nutraceutical and phytomedicine to target aberrant biological mechanisms which result in altered physiological processes and various ailments. Given the polypharmacological effects and pleiotropic properties, along with favorable pharmacokinetics, and dietary availability and safety, &#x3b1;-Bisabolol can be used as a dietary agent, nutraceutical or phytopharmaceutical agent or as an adjuvant with currently available modern medicines. The regulatory approval of this molecule for use as food additives, and in cosmetics and fragrance industry is also supportive of its human usage. Moreover, further studies are necessary to address pharmaceutical, pharmacological, and toxicological aspects before clinical or nutritional usage in humans. The biological actions and health benefits open opportunities for pharmaceutical development with pharmacological basis of its use in future therapeutics.

Pharmacological and biological effects of alpha-bisabolol: An updated review of the molecular mechanisms [PMID: 35753438 · 2022]
Ramazani E, Akaberi M, Emami SA, Tayarani-Najaran Z · Life Sci (2022)

Alpha-bisabolol (&#x3b1;-bisabolol), an unsaturated monocyclic sesquiterpene alcohol, is known as one of the "most-used herbal constituents" in the world. Various therapeutic and biological properties of &#x3b1;-bisabolol in preventing oxidative stress, inflammatory disorders, infections, neurodegenerative diseases, cancers, and metabolic disorders have been reported. In this review, we evaluated new findings regarding the molecular mechanisms of &#x3b1;-bisabolol published from 2010 until 2021 in PubMed, Science Direct, and Scopus. The antioxidant mechanism of &#x3b1;-bisabolol is mainly associated with the reduction of ROS/RNS, MDA, and GSH depletion, MPO activity, and augmentation of SOD and CAT. Additionally, upregulating the expression of bcl-2 and suppression of bax, P53, APAF-1, caspase-3, and caspase-9 activity indicates the anti-apoptotic effects of &#x3b1;- bisabolol. It possesses anti-inflammatory effects via reduction of TNF-&#x3b1;, IL-1&#x3b2;, IL-6, iNOS, and COX-2 and suppresses the activation of ERK1/2, JNK, NF-&#x3ba;B, and p38. The antimicrobial effect is mediated by inhibiting the viability of infected cells and improves cognitive function via downregulation of bax, cleaved caspases-3 and 9 levels, &#x3b2;-secretase, cholinesterase activities, and upregulation of bcl-2 levels. Finally, due to multiple biological activities, &#x3b1;-bisabolol is worthy to be subjected to clinical trials to achieve new insights into its beneficial effects on human health.

A multi-target combinatorial therapy of MDBA alleviates atopic dermatitis via synchronized immunosuppression and barrier repair [PMID: 41802486 · 2026]
Zhu C, Xia A, Huang Z, Liu C, Chen Y, Yu Q, Wu X, Ma T, Irwin MW, Irwin DM, Tai Z, Chen Z, Zhu Q · Eur J Pharmacol (2026)

The pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis (AD) involves immune dysregulation and skin barrier dysfunction. Existing therapies often struggle to concurrently address immune modulation and barrier repair, and long-term use may lead to side effects. This study systematically evaluated the comprehensive potential and mechanisms of action of MDBA, a complex comprising matrine (M), dipotassium glycyrrhizinate (D), alpha-bisabolol (B), and asiaticoside (A), which has been employed for the first time to treat AD. In a calcipotriol (MC903)-induced mouse and guinea pig models of AD-like dermatitis, topical application of MDBA significantly ameliorated disease severity, as evidenced by reduced EASI scores and epidermal thickness. Mechanistic investigations revealed that the therapeutic effects of MDBA are likely mediated through the inhibition of the phosphatidylinositide 3-kinase/protein kinase B (PI3K/AKT) signaling pathway, achieving dual regulation: on one hand, it effectively suppressed the overactivation of Th2-type immunity, demonstrated by decreased levels of interleukin (IL)-4, IL-13, and IL-31 in ear tissue and serum, reduced infiltration of cluster of differentiation 4-positive T (CD4 + T) cells, and lower serum total immunoglobulin E (IgE) levels and mast cell infiltration; on the other hand, it potently promoted skin barrier repair, upregulating the expression of various key barrier proteins including filaggrin (FLG), involucrin, and claudin-1. Furthermore, in an independent physical barrier disruption model induced by tape stripping, MDBA also demonstrated excellent restorative function, accelerating epidermal recovery, reducing transepidermal water loss, and normalizing ceramide levels. Safety assessment revealed no significant organ toxicity or functional abnormalities. Thus, MDBA is a promising AD therapy that targets the PI3K/AKT pathway to deliver concurrent immunosuppressive and barrier-repairing effects.

Functional Characterization of a Sesquiterpene Synthase Involved in Stereospecific Biosynthesis of β-Bisabolol [PMID: 41364478 · 2025]
Pu WT, Chen Y, Liu SL, Yu Z, Wang YJ, Tan Y, Huang SX, Huang JP, Yang J · J Agric Food Chem (2025)

&#x3b2;-Bisabolol, an odor-active monocyclic sesquiterpene alcohol, is the primary constituent of essential oils from various agriculturally and medically important plants. Despite its attractive potential for applications in pest control, flavoring agents, medicine, and cosmetics, the terpene synthase responsible for the biosynthesis of &#x3b2;-bisabolol in plants remains to be elucidated. Here, we report the characterization of a sesquiterpene synthase encoded by VjBisS in the medicinal plant Valeriana jatamansi Jones ex Roxb. In vitro and in vivo enzyme assays showed that VjBisS could catalyze the stereospecific biosynthesis of (1 R ,10 R )-&#x3b2;-bisabolol. Subsequently, the potential catalytic mechanism of VjBisS was investigated by protein modeling, molecular docking, and site-directed mutagenesis. As a result, residues critical for the catalytic activity and catalytic specificity of VjBisS were determined. Together, our work enables the enzyme-catalyzed efficient stereoselective synthesis of (1 R ,10 R )-&#x3b2;-bisabolol, laying a foundation for understanding and optimizing plant essential oil constituents for applications in agriculture, food, medicine, and cosmetics.

Exploring the mechanism of α-Bisabolol in the treatment of psoriasis based on network pharmacology and experimental validation [PMID: 40089261 · 2025]
Wu Y, Yuan S, Wang Y, Zhang Y, Ye Z, Liu B, Yang H, You T · Eur J Pharmacol (2025)

This study aims to evaluate the effects of &#x3b1;-Bisabolol in the treatment of psoriasis both in vivo and in vitro, and to elucidate its mechanism of action. We used network pharmacology to explore the potential active components and targets of &#x3b1;-Bisabolol in the treatment of psoriasis. Psoriasis-like models were induced in mice or keratinocytes using imiquimod (IMQ) or tumor necrosis factor-&#x3b1; (TNF-&#x3b1;). The results indicated that &#x3b1;-Bisabolol shares 133 potential genes with psoriasis, and pathway enrichment analysis showed that the PI3K/AKT and nuclear factor &#x3ba;B (NF-&#x3ba;B) signaling pathways are considered key pathways. In vivo experiments showed that &#x3b1;-Bisabolol reduced epidermal thickening, inflammatory cell infiltration, and histological psoriasis-like lesions in IMQ-induced mice (P&#xa0;&lt;&#xa0;0.05, P&#xa0;&lt;&#xa0;0.01). &#x3b1;-Bisabolol inhibited the elevation of inflammatory cytokines (including interleukin-6(IL-6), interleukin-1&#x3b2;(IL-1&#x3b2;), interleukin-17A(IL-17A), interleukin-23(IL-23) and tumor necrosis factor-&#x3b1; (TNF-&#x3b1;)) in skin lesions of mice and TNF-&#x3b1;-treated HaCat cells (P&#xa0;&lt;&#xa0;0.05, P&#xa0;&lt;&#xa0;0.01). Mechanistically, &#x3b1;-Bisabolol inhibited the phosphorylation of PI3K/AKT (PI3K and AKT) and NF-&#x3ba;B (I&#x3ba;B and p65) signaling pathways activated by IMQ (P&#xa0;&lt;&#xa0;0.05, P&#xa0;&lt;&#xa0;0.01). Similar changes were detected in TNF-&#x3b1;-treated HaCaT cells. This suggests that &#x3b1;-Bisabolol may inhibit inflammation in TNF-&#x3b1;-treated keratinocytes and psoriasis mice through the PI3K/AKT and NF-&#x3ba;B pathways, providing a new theoretical basis for clinical application in the treatment of psoriasis.

Topical delivery performance of Pickering emulsions stabilized by differently charged spirulina protein isolate/Chitosan composite particles [PMID: 39892675 · 2025]
Qiu X, Yan D, Xu L, Wang Y, Mao Y, Yang C, Li Y, Sun Y · Int J Pharm (2025)

Pickering emulsions, stabilized by particulate particles, have emerged as a promising vehicle for topical delivery. Herein, Pickering emulsions stabilized by differently charged spirulina protein isolate - chitosan (SC) composite particles were studied for effective topical delivery of &#x3b1;-Bisabolol (ABS). The composite particles were synthesized via electrostatic assembly of spirulina protein isolate (SPI) and chitosan (CS), and their surface charge was assessed using zeta potential measurements. The Pickering emulsions stabilized by SC composite particles with different charges were all stable over 30&#xa0;days and had a high encapsulation efficiency for ABS. In vitro skin permeation study revealed that positively charged emulsions significantly increased ABS retention within the skin, predominantly in the stratum corneum layer. The underlying delivery mechanism was further explored using attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. Lastly, the influence of particle concentration and oil phase volume fraction on the topical delivery efficiency was conducted to optimize the Pickering formulations. This study provides insight into the role of particle charge in enhancing topical delivery of Pickering emulsions.

Engineering Saccharomyces cerevisiae for enhanced (-)-α-bisabolol production [PMID: 36824492 · 2023]
Jiang Y, Xia L, Gao S, Li N, Yu S, Zhou J · Synth Syst Biotechnol (2023)

(-)-&#x3b1;-Bisabolol is naturally occurring in many plants and has great potential in health products and pharmaceuticals. However, the current extraction method from natural plants is unsustainable and cannot fulfil the increasing requirement. This study aimed to develop a sustainable strategy to enhance the biosynthesis of (-)-&#x3b1;-bisabolol by metabolic engineering. By introducing the heterologous gene MrBBS and weakening the competitive pathway gene ERG9 , a de novo (-)-&#x3b1;-bisabolol biosynthesis strain was constructed that could produce 221.96&#xa0;mg/L (-)-&#x3b1;-bisabolol. Two key genes for (-)-&#x3b1;-bisabolol biosynthesis, ERG20 and MrBBS , were fused by a flexible linker (GGGS) 3 under the GAL7 promoter control, and the titer was increased by 2.9-fold. Optimization of the mevalonic acid pathway and multi-copy integration further increased (-)-&#x3b1;-bisabolol production. To promote product efflux, overexpression of PDR15 led to an increase in extracellular production. Combined with the optimal strategy, (-)-&#x3b1;-bisabolol production in a 5&#xa0;L bioreactor reached 7.02&#xa0;g/L, which is the highest titer reported in yeast to date. This work provides a reference for the efficient production of (-)-&#x3b1;-bisabolol in yeast.

Antibiotic-free high-yield (-)-α-bisabolol production in Serratia marcescens via metabolic engineering and genomic integration of mevalonate pathway genes [PMID: 41551739 · 2026]
Li W, Liu D, Gou L, Wu S, Zhou X, Fan TP, Wang L, Cai Y · Synth Syst Biotechnol (2026)

(-)-&#x3b1;-Bisabolol, a valuable monocyclic sesquiterpene alcohol, has garnered significant attention in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries due to its remarkable anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and skin-care properties. In this study, Serratia marcescens HBQA7 ( S. marcescens HBQA7), a non-model strain resistant to terpenoid toxicity, was used as the production host, and the expression intensities of different integration sites were screened. The complete (-)-&#x3b1;-bisabolol synthesis pathway was integrated into these sites, achieving a production titer of 3.5&#xa0;g&#xa0;L -1 . On this basis, by knocking out competitive pathway genes (such as slaB and adhE ) and global regulatory factors ( arcA and iclR ), and introducing efficient glucose transport and activation ( glf and glk ), the shake flask fermentation titer was increased to 7.21&#xa0;g&#xa0;L -1 . Through optimization of fermentation culture by orthogonal experiments and others, the titer was further increased to 9.90&#xa0;g&#xa0;L -1 . Finally, through the fed-batch fermentation process conducted in a 50&#xa0;L bioreactor, a titer of 102.3&#xa0;g&#xa0;L -1 was achieved after 110&#xa0;h of cultivation. The productivity reached 0.93&#xa0;g&#xa0;L -1 &#xa0;h -1 . This study not only establishes the most efficient microbial production system for (-)-&#x3b1;-bisabolol reported to date, but also demonstrates the outstanding potential of S. marcescens as a chassis for terpenoid biosynthesis. It provides a novel strategy for the industrial production of high-value terpenoids.

Effect of Distillation Time on the Yield and Chemical Composition of Leaf Essential Oil from Abies koreana [PMID: 41977782 · 2026]
Park C, Kim N, Jang SK, et al. · Plants (Basel) (2026)

Distillation time (DT) is a key parameter influencing yield and chemical composition, and its optimisation is crucial for production. This study is the first laboratory-scale investigation of the effect of distillation time (DT) on the leaf essential oils of Abies koreana , aiming to maximise oil yield and target bioactive components for cosmetic applications. Essential oils were obtained by hydrodistillation at 14 DTs (1, 3, 5, 10, 20, 40, 80, 120, 160, 200, 240, 280, 360, and 480 min), and the yields, chemical profiles, and fragrance characteristics were comparatively analysed. The control (exhaustive hydrodistillation: 20 h) yielded 2.82% and was dominated by D -limonene, bornyl acetate, and camphene. The contents of bioactive compounds associated with whitening and anti-wrinkle activities (&#x3b1;-pinene, D -limonene, borneol, and bornyl acetate) varied markedly with DT. The highest oil yield was obtained at 80 min (0.30 &#xb1; 0.01%), while the targeted components were achieved at 80-160 min. Heatmap-based multivariate analysis revealed distinct compositional differences between oils distilled at 80 min and 160 min, with DT shifting fragrance profiles from fresh, monoterpene-rich notes (linalyl acetate, camphor, and fenchol) to longer-lasting, sesquiterpene-dominated aromas (&#x3b1;-bisabolol and &#x3b2;-eudesmol). Therefore, distillation time significantly influenced A. koreana oil, with shorter distillation (80 min) maximising yield and longer distillation (80-160 min) enriching bioactive components for cosmetic applications.

Dermofunctional Vehicle Downregulates LL-37 and MMPs and Upregulates IGFBP-3 [PMID: 41614884 · 2025]
Polonini H, da Silva Olímpio FR, Oliveira CR · Curr Issues Mol Biol (2025)

Functional dermatological bases can contribute more than just delivery-they may actively modulate cutaneous homeostasis. Cleoderm&#x2122; is a dermofunctional base containing a patented Cleome gynandra extract, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, bisabolol, hyaluronic acid, and functional oils, rationally designed to provide anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and barrier-supportive properties. To determine whether Cleoderm&#x2122; exhibits intrinsic immunomodulatory and matrix-protective effects in a physiologically relevant skin co-culture and to clarify the biomarkers most impacted, with translational relevance to acne and rosacea. Human keratinocytes and fibroblasts were maintained in a transwell co-culture. Non-cytotoxic concentrations of Cleoderm&#x2122; (1.0% and 10.0%, v/v ) were tested with or without LPS stimulation (1 &#x3bc;g/mL). Viability was assessed by MTT and Trypan Blue. Cytokines (IL-6, TNF-&#x3b1;, IL-10, TGF-&#x3b2;) and MMPs (MMP-1, -3, -13) were quantified by ELISA and RT-qPCR. LL-37, IGFBP-3, and TGF-&#x3b2; protein levels were evaluated by Western blot. Cleoderm&#x2122; showed no cytotoxicity up to 10% ( v/v ). It significantly reduced pro-inflammatory mediators (IL-6, TNF-&#x3b1;) and matrix-degrading enzymes (MMP-1, MMP-3, MMP-13) while increasing anti-inflammatory/reparative cytokines (IL-10, TGF-&#x3b2;). A dual, biomarker-level modulation was observed: (i) LL-37 was reduced, with a particularly pronounced decrease in secreted levels; and (ii) IGFBP-3 was markedly upregulated, indicating potential attenuation of the IGF-1 axis relevant to sebaceous lipogenesis. Collectively, these effects indicate immunoregulatory and matrix-protective activity consistent with improved cutaneous homeostasis. In a dermo-epidermally relevant in vitro model, Cleoderm&#x2122; functions as an active dermofunctional base, not merely a vehicle simultaneously tempering inflammatory signaling, preserving extracellular matrix integrity, and modulating mechanistic nodes (LL-37 and IGFBP-3) linked to rosacea and acne. These findings is consistent with the use of Cleoderm&#x2122; as a biologically supportive base for personalized compounding and justify controlled clinical evaluation.

Construction of yeast two-hybrid cDNA library and identification of interacting protein with McHDRa/b in Matricaria chamomilla L [PMID: 40624268 · 2025]
Wang H, Yu L, Li S, et al. · Plant Mol Biol (2025)

German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla L.) is a traditional aromatic medicinal plant, its flower contains volatile aromatic oil (essential oil). The main sesquiterpene components of&#xa0;the&#xa0;essential oil are (E)-&#x3b2;-farnesene, chamazulene, and &#x3b1;-bisabolol, these components have significant medicinal value and are used in food, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals. However, the German chamomile genome has not yet been cataloged in any database; consequently, research on the intricate regulatory network and interaction mechanisms among proteins in German chamomile remains limited. Furthermore, no study has thus far developed a yeast cDNA library for German chamomile. Therefore, we constructed a homogenized yeast cDNA library using different tissues of German chamomile, this yeast cDNA library had a titer of 1.444&#x2009;&#xd7;&#x2009;10 8 colony-forming units/mL, an average insert size of&#x2009;&gt;&#x2009;1,000&#xa0;bp, and a positive rate of 100%. In addition, 1-hydroxy-2-methyl-2-(E)-butenyl 4-diphosphate synthase (HDS) that interacted with Hydroxy-2-methyl-2-(E)-butenyl 4-diphosphate reductase (HDR) involved in the final step of the methylerythritol 4-phosphate (MEP) pathway was verified through the yeast two-hybrid (Y2H) assay and bimolecular fluorescence complementation (BiFC). At the same time, the expression pattern and function of McHDS were further analyzed. In conclusion, we successfully constructed a yeast cDNA library of German chamomile for the first time, and McHDS interacting with McHDRa/b was successfully screened, providing a reliable theoretical foundation for investigating the molecular mechanism of its coordination with McHDRa/b to regulate the biosynthesis of (E)-&#x3b2;-farnesene in German chamomile. Which lays the groundwork for our comprehensive understanding of the protein interaction network involved in sesquiterpene synthesis of German chamomile.

Evaluation of the Efficacy and Safety of a Panthenol-Enriched Mask for Skin Barrier Recovery After Facial Laser Treatment: Results of a Double-Blind Randomized Controlled Study [PMID: 40613435 · 2025]
Gao M, Gao N, Wang L, et al. · J Cosmet Dermatol (2025)

Facial laser procedures may result in compromised skin barrier function and associated discomfort. It is essential to address these issues to facilitate a swift recovery and enhance patient satisfaction. To evaluate the efficacy and safety of a panthenol-enriched mask, incorporating centella asiatica extract (madecassoside) and bisabolol, in repairing the skin barrier after 1550 and 1927&#x2009;nm dual-wavelength non-ablative fractional laser therapy. A total of 60 subjects were enrolled in this double-blind randomized study and were divided into Control group (CG) and Mask group (MG). Both groups received standard post-operative care, the MG receiving the Mask, while the CG received a saline dressing. Skin barrier repair was assessed using a skin physiological detection instrument, colorimetry, and a skin imaging analyzer (VISIA). The incidence of adverse reactions was also monitored. The MG exhibited significantly lower erythema index and hyperpigmentation index at D3, D7, and D14, compared to the CG. The MG had significantly higher sebum content than the CG at D7 and D14. The stratum corneum moisture content in the MG was also higher than in the CG at D3, D7, and D14. Additionally, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was significantly reduced in the MG at D3, D7, and D14. There was no significant difference in the rate of adverse reactions between the groups. A panthenol-enriched Mask effectively decreased post non-ablative laser erythema, enhanced skin hydration, and promoted skin barrier repair.

Benefits of a Multifunctional Sunscreen Formulation Containing Nanoencapsulated Antioxidants in the Skin Protection Against UV Radiation and Blue Light: Clinical and Preclinical Studies [PMID: 40536111 · 2025]
Fonseca AP, Ribon R, Cascais L, et al. · J Cosmet Dermatol (2025)

The development of sunscreens with properties beyond photoprotection involves carefully optimizing the blend of ingredients and employing advanced systems to ensure effective delivery through the skin layers. The aim of this study was to evaluate the efficacy of a multifunctional photoprotective formulation containing a blend of nanoencapsulated ingredients-ascorbyl palmitate, caffeine, and resveratrol-and the active ingredients niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, bisabolol, tocopherol, and carnosine in skin protection against UV and blue light radiations, by in&#xa0;vitro, ex&#xa0;vivo, and clinical studies. A preclinical approach using human explants was performed to evaluate the protective effects of a sunscreen formulation against damage induced by UV and blue light radiation. In addition, a clinical trial was carried out to evaluate skin acceptability, protection from UV-A and UV-B, collagen synthesis by fluorescence spectroscopy, and skin hydration. The results of the preclinical study showed that the proposed formulation prevented UV-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) production and stimulated the levels of epidermal opsin-3 photoreceptors, ensuring melanogenesis control. The clinical study showed that the sunscreen was well-tolerated by both skin and eyes, improved skin conditions by upregulating collagen synthesis, and moisturizing the skin. The combination of the active ingredients in the proposed formulation was safe and effective for skin protection against ultraviolet radiation, besides promoting collagen synthesis and opsin-3 stimulus.

Enhancing Niacinamide Skin Penetration via Other Skin Brightening Agents: A Molecular Dynamics Simulation Study [PMID: 40004021 · 2025]
Somboon K, Chng CP, Huang C, et al. · Int J Mol Sci (2025)

Niacinamide, a derivative of vitamin B3, has been shown to reduce skin pigmentation (i.e., acting as a brightening agent) and inflammatory responses such as dermatitis and acne vulgaris. However, niacinamide is a hydrophilic compound and poor partitioning to the lipid matrix in the uppermost layer of the skin (the stratum corneum or SC) limits its delivery to the skin. This necessitates the use of penetration enhancers to increase its bio-availability. In this study, we used computer simulations to investigate the skin penetration of niacinamide alone and in combination with other brightening agents that are also shown to be skin penetration enhancers, namely undecylenoyl phenylalanine (Sepiwhite &#xae; ), bisabolol, or sucrose dilaurate. Molecular dynamics simulations were performed to reveal molecular interactions of these brightening agents with a lipid bilayer model that mimics the SC lipid matrix. We observed minimal penetration of niacinamide into the SC lipid bilayer when applied alone or in combination with any one of the three compounds. However, when all three compounds were combined, a notable increase in penetration was observed. We showed a 32% increase in the niacinamide diffusivity in the presence of three other brightening agents, which also work as penetration enhancers for niacinamide. These findings suggest that formulations containing multiple brightening agents, which work as penetration enhancers, may improve skin penetration of niacinamide and enhance the effectiveness of the treatment.

The Role of Moisturizer Containing Anti-inflammatory on Skin Hydration in Mild-Moderate Atopic Dermatitis Patients [PMID: 39741562 · 2024]
Prakoeswa CRS, Damayanti, Anggraeni S, et al. · Dermatol Res Pract (2024)

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic, inflammatory skin condition characterized by eczema lesions and dry, itchy skin. Recent guidelines for the management of AD emphasize the importance of using moisturizers in the management of AD. This study is a double-blind clinical trial to determine the effectiveness of moisturizers containing anti-inflammatory ingredients compared with moisturizers without anti-inflammatory ingredients for skin hydration in mild to moderate adult AD patients for 14&#x2009;days at the Dermatology and Venereology Outpatient Clinic at Dr. Soetomo General Academic Hospital. There was a significant difference ( p &lt; 0.05) at the baseline and day 14 skin hydration values in the experiment group with anti-inflammatory ingredients (35.97&#x2009;&#xb1;&#x2009;6.04-66.06&#x2009;&#xb1;&#x2009;15.84) and the control group without anti-inflammatory ingredients (40.74&#x2009;&#xb1;&#x2009;10.94-56.12&#x2009;&#xb1;&#x2009;8.34). After comparison, there was a significant difference ( p &lt; 0.05) in the skin hydration value between the experiment group and the control group on the 14th day. There was also a significant difference in the improvement of skin hydration outcomes between both groups ( p &lt; 0.05). The severity of the disease using Scoring Atopic Dermatitis (SCORAD) showed a significant difference ( p &lt; 0.05) between the experiment group and the control group after 2&#x2009;weeks of intervention. The addition of anti-inflammatory ingredients in the moisturizer, namely, shea butter, bacterial lysate, allantoin, bisabolol, Phragmites kharka extract, Poria cocos , and Mirabilis jalapa in a moisturizer containing occlusive (dimethicone), humectants (glycerin, saccharide, butylene glycol, and hyaluronic acid), and emollient (shea butter and squalane) was shown to be significantly better in improving skin hydration in patients with mild to moderate AD.

자주 묻는 질문 (AEO 스니펫 최적화 FAQ)

Q1. 비사보롤 (BISABOLOL)의 국가별 공식 전성분 표기명은 어떻게 다른가요?
한국 식약처 표준명은 '비사보롤', 미국 PCPC 및 유럽 CosIng INCI 표기는 'BISABOLOL', 중국 NMPA IECIC 표준명은 '红没药醇', 일본 화장품 표시명칭은 'BISABOLOL'입니다.
Q2. 비사보롤의 글로벌 6대 권역 법정 배합 한도(Layer 1)는 무엇인가요?
한국(KR: noted), 유럽(EU: none), 미국(US: none), 중국(CN: allowed), 일본(JP: restricted), 아세안(ASEAN: none) 고시 기준을 준수하여 처방해야 합니다.
Q3. 제형 설계 시 비사보롤의 통상 배합 농도(Layer 3)와 적정 pH는 얼마인가요?
대표 제형군(emulsion_cream) 기준 통상 0.1~1%(권장 중앙값 0.3%) 범위로 투입하며, 적정 pH는 3.5~9입니다.
Q4. 비사보롤 배합 시 주의해야 할 상용성 금기(Incompatibilities)와 시너지 성분은 무엇인가요?
주요 권장 시너지 조합은 RETINOL, PANTHENOL, CERAMIDE NP, GUAIAZULENE, ZINC OXIDE이며, 배합 주의사항은 지용성 오일 원료이므로 수성 토너·앰플에는 Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate 또는 Polysorbate 20(1:4 비율)으로 선가용화 후 투입 필수; 이성질체 분리 철칙: 천연 (-)-α-Bisabolol (알파-비사보롤, KR 미백 기능성 고시 0.5%)과 합성 라세미체 (±)-Bisabolol (비사보롤, 활성 약 50%)을 구분하여 처방할 것입니다.