POLYGLYCERYL-3 METHYLGLUCOSE DISTEARATE

Saussurea lappa (SL) has been reported for its antioxidant and anti-ageing properties. Due to this reason it can be incorporated in a stable phytoformulations for cosmetic use. The objective of the study was to evaluate the anti-aging potential of cosmetic o/w emulsion containing the botanical extract of SL. An emulsion (o/w) was prepared using TEGO® Care 450 (Polyglceryl-3-Methyl Glucose Distearate) emulsifier and final emulsion was loaded with 4 % extract of SL in aqueous phase. This emulsion evaluated for its antioxidant and anti-ageing properties on healthy human subjects using a non-invasive technique called surface evaluation of living skin (SELS). The formulation containing SL extract showed significant (p<0.05) changes in Skin roughness (SEr) as -3.13%, -6.26%, -9.39%; Skin Scaliness (SEsc) as - 4.19%, -8.39%, -12.58%; Skin wrinkles (SEw) as -0.5%, -1.08%, -1.63%; and Skin smoothness (SEsm) as 3.28%, 6.57%, 9.85%, respectively, after 30, 60 and 90 days of continous use. Topical application of the cosmetic cream containing SL extract exerts have a significant anti-aging effects, perhaps due to the presence of Kaempferol, gallic acid, Caffeic acid and other essential phenolics.

O/W creams prepared in three mechanical conditions (F with a hand blender; S turbomixer; T vacuum turbo-emulsor) produced different dispersion grades of the internal phase and different rheological characteristics by using surfactants of different chemical nature (polyoxyethylene-cetostearyl alcohols and polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate). Three tests were used (an in vitro release test across a porous membrane; an in vitro simulated absorption test across a porous membrane impregnated with isopropyl myristate; an in vivo absorption test based on the intensity and duration of the erythema produced by methyl nicotinate after application of the cream on the skin) to assess whether the different physical characteristics influence drug availability from the creams. The different physical characteristics due to the mechanical conditions of emulsifying and gelification appeared not to influence drug release and in vivo absorption.

Two series of O/W creams having the same general formulation were prepared in three different mechanical conditions (F with an hand blender; S with a turbomixer; T with a vacuum turbo emulsor) using two types of surfactants, polyoxyethylene-cetostearyl alcohols and polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose-distearate. By means of microscopic image analysis it was possible to point out the dispersion grade of the oil internal phase increasing with the energy applied under the conditions of manufacture (F < S < T). The level of dispersion influenced significantly on the rheological characteristics of the creams. With polyoxyethylene-cetostearyl alcohols, the viscosity of creams increased as the energy applied in manufacturing increased, with polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose-distearate on the contrary decreased. Moreover, indifferently to the manufacturing conditions, even in the same concentration of surfactant, the creams obtained with the last produced a much greater viscosity. At a parity of manufacturing conditions the differences between the batches of productions were not significant.